Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Quebec is coming....
Between sketchy internet access in my Quebec hotel and on the return VIA train rides, I couldn't keep up with this blog! But as soon as I have a chance to breathe, I'll finish posting about my trip, promise!
Friday, February 12, 2010
Blogging in Transit...
As I speed (aboard a VIA train) towards Montreal and then Quebec City, I can catch up on my blogging! I do have quite a few hours of travel today but the train certainly beats the hassle (and cost) of flying and I'm too accoustomed to mild NJ winters to even think of trying to rent a car and drive myself to Quebec. With my luck, I'd probably drive straight into a snowstorm... or perhaps would hit a caribou (I think there are caribou up here... or maybe moose. Either way, big animals + me driving= just asking for trouble, I'm also enjoying the chance to rest after two days straight of motion.
Yesterday started out with a breakfast stop at Tim Hortons (c'mon, does this surprise anyone anymore?) and a little bit of shopping at Roots (the one by the hotel carries Second Denim Company Yoga Jeans, a Canadian-made brand that isn't readily available in the US. I already have one pair and they are the coziest things ever-- you can do a split in these jeans!). Then, it was off to Parliament Hill.
To begin, it's an impressive walk up the hill, past an undying flame in the middle of a running water fountain that contains the shields for all of the provinces and territories:
And beside it, a pro-life protester (complete with triangle-board signs and everything). No pics of him, sorry.
I had arrived a half hour early for the next tour, so the security guard at the door suggested that I take that time to go up the Peace Tower-- the tall tower with the clock in the center-- and the Memorial Chamber. Through security I went and up the staircase. The Parliament interiors are very european in feel, the carved stone archways, walls, and ceilings, not to different from what one would find in a gothic/baroque building over there-- lovely and impressive. And as I waited for the elevator up to the tower, I overhead one tour guide mention that her group was very lucky-- they were going to be able to observe the ceremony where the pages in the Remembrance books of the memorial chamber would be turned, a ceremony that very few visitors to the Parliament get to see (more on that later.) After hearing that, I was reluctant to get into the elevator up to the tower. The view from the observation deck, though, made that reluctance fade as I looked over Ottawa and (across the river) Gatineau (Hull), The river was semi-frozen over, a fun sight.
And, as I waited for the elevator to come pick me up, the security guard joked about keeping me (an American) hostage up in the tower, pointed out the American Embassy, and offered to take my picture.
(Quick digression... we're currently rolling past the snow-covered farmlands of Quebec. So pretty)
I did manage to get back to the entrance of the memorial chamber to catch a glimpse of the tail-end of the page turning. What this ceremony does (at 11am daily) is honor those Canadians who died in service to their country. There are five books in the chamber, each page filled with names. This daily page turning allows each name to be on display at least once a year. The chamber walls are inscribes with poetry, quotes, and psalms in English and in French ("In Flanders Fields" is one of those poems.)
Then, I made my way back downstairs to start the tour. Our guide was fun and funny and very helpful in explaining the Canadian political system to the four of us foreigners in the bunch. Me, being a geek, piped in with questions about the prorogation currently occurring and the powers of the Governor General (the crown representative who is, apparently, pretty much functionally a social director.) The building was amazing. I wish that we could have taken pictures in the library, but this will have to suffice-- those walls are all carved white maple.
The red chamber entrance was equally grand:
(and this sort of architecture is normal throughout the Parliament)
All in all, a beautiful building, informative tour, and well worth the visit. And to add to my geekiness? Looks like all of my LMM fandom helped in my Canadian history knowledge-- when I saw the 1st Parliament plaque with the first Prime Minister John A. MacDonald's name, I remembered her mention of meeting him on her train ride west when she was just a little girl.
A walk around Parliament Hill revealed the stray cat sanctuary (where I pet the sweetest little kitty named "Brownie") and a nice view of the river. BTW, the cat sanctuary? It's listed in the Lonely Planet guide as one of the "wierd Ottawa" places to visit.
Next up was a walk to the Supreme Court. I hadn't reserved a tour, so I couldn't go in *sniffle*, but I did take the time to snap a picture of the statues out front, especially my favorite one:
(Justice. Eerie, no?)
Up to the National Library and Archives-- no real exhibits were up to see there at the time, so I hightailed it down Sparks Street-- past the CBC radio offices (another geeky moment! I felt this incredible urge to run up there and say: "I LOVE your radio programs!!! Got any "As it Happens" mugs?"
But I restrained myself, like a good public radio listener.)
I did get a chance to stop by Zellers, where they actually had the coveted "Red Mittens" for sale (and must have gotten a fresh shipment, from the number of people buzzing around the bins!) This is, apparently, -the- Olympic Souvenir to get and, though I'm not Canadian, I can now try to blend in (like when Joey wore red and green to the Greece-Portugal Euro cup finals-- it's a matter of survival *grin*) Plus, they're outright cute.
Another side note: anyone else loving the Olympic fashion this year? The US uniforms (courtesy of Ralph Lauren) are awesome and stylish, ditto for the Canadian, and I'm coveting the outfits designed for the medal presenters (see them here.)
Next up, Bytown Museum, "Where Ottawa Was Born." This little museum is located at the base of the Ottawa locks, in what used to be the Commissary. First thing that I learned at the museum is that the (UNESCO- designated world heritage site) Rideau Canal and its famous locks were built during the War of 1812 to defend against the Americans. How incredibly ironic is it that this canal now draws in so many Americans through tourism? The museum, itself, is small with only a few exhibits, but informative. For someone who loves antique clothing and accessories, my favorite part was the exhibit on Victorian life on the third floor, complete with hair jewelery, mourning hats, and one of the prettiest gowns I've seen from the period.
No rest for the weary. This intrepid traveler next hightailed it over to the mint, stopping in transit to go into the Basilica of Notre Dame, the seat of the Catholic Church in Ottawa.
(That roof? Nickel-clad, I think. It shines so bright in the sun)
It's another building that could have easily been picked up somewhere in France, Portugal, Spain, Italy, and dumped right in Ottawa. The star-painted ceiling is more than enough excuse to go inside.
Next up was the mint, where they made the medals for this Olympics-- they had three of them (and three of the Paralympics) medals temporarily hanging in a display case-- that was a once-in-a-lifetime sight to see.
After the mint, I hiked back over to the hotel and changed for a quick late afternoon skate on the canal. The lights on the canal were starting to be lit and (having not eaten anything since a muffin top at breakfast) I was craving another Beavertail.
After skating and walking so much over two days, I have to admit that my poor feet hurt so much that I only lasted about a kilometer and a half on the canal before giving in and hiking over to the Rogers Crystal Garden, which also had beavertails and the ability to walk amoungst the lit ice sculptures whilst devouring said beavertail:
(pairs nicely with a maple-butter beavertail!)
I wasn't done yet! Next up was a hike back up to the National Art Museum (free from 5-8 on Thursdays, whee!) where I took in the Canadian and Inuit art galleries... and a perfect appetizer for dinner at the Sweetgrass Aboriginal Bistro. And when one eats at an Aboriginal Bistro, it's a shame if one doesn't bother to try foods one has never eaten before!
I cheated with the potato-leek-bacon soup, but I was sooooo cold that I needed something to warm me up. I followed that with the wabush (rabbit) dumplings (yum!) and then the Elk 2 ways-- grilled and braised. Everything was good, though sooo much meat (when I usually don't each much, particularly red meat) finished me for the night. Full and happy, I waddled back to the hotel and called it a night.
Next up: The Olympic opening ceremonies (on TV or perhaps in a theatre!),the nighttime dance party at the Carnival de Quebec, and another long and tiring day. Wheee!
Yesterday started out with a breakfast stop at Tim Hortons (c'mon, does this surprise anyone anymore?) and a little bit of shopping at Roots (the one by the hotel carries Second Denim Company Yoga Jeans, a Canadian-made brand that isn't readily available in the US. I already have one pair and they are the coziest things ever-- you can do a split in these jeans!). Then, it was off to Parliament Hill.
To begin, it's an impressive walk up the hill, past an undying flame in the middle of a running water fountain that contains the shields for all of the provinces and territories:
And beside it, a pro-life protester (complete with triangle-board signs and everything). No pics of him, sorry.
I had arrived a half hour early for the next tour, so the security guard at the door suggested that I take that time to go up the Peace Tower-- the tall tower with the clock in the center-- and the Memorial Chamber. Through security I went and up the staircase. The Parliament interiors are very european in feel, the carved stone archways, walls, and ceilings, not to different from what one would find in a gothic/baroque building over there-- lovely and impressive. And as I waited for the elevator up to the tower, I overhead one tour guide mention that her group was very lucky-- they were going to be able to observe the ceremony where the pages in the Remembrance books of the memorial chamber would be turned, a ceremony that very few visitors to the Parliament get to see (more on that later.) After hearing that, I was reluctant to get into the elevator up to the tower. The view from the observation deck, though, made that reluctance fade as I looked over Ottawa and (across the river) Gatineau (Hull), The river was semi-frozen over, a fun sight.
And, as I waited for the elevator to come pick me up, the security guard joked about keeping me (an American) hostage up in the tower, pointed out the American Embassy, and offered to take my picture.
(Quick digression... we're currently rolling past the snow-covered farmlands of Quebec. So pretty)
I did manage to get back to the entrance of the memorial chamber to catch a glimpse of the tail-end of the page turning. What this ceremony does (at 11am daily) is honor those Canadians who died in service to their country. There are five books in the chamber, each page filled with names. This daily page turning allows each name to be on display at least once a year. The chamber walls are inscribes with poetry, quotes, and psalms in English and in French ("In Flanders Fields" is one of those poems.)
Then, I made my way back downstairs to start the tour. Our guide was fun and funny and very helpful in explaining the Canadian political system to the four of us foreigners in the bunch. Me, being a geek, piped in with questions about the prorogation currently occurring and the powers of the Governor General (the crown representative who is, apparently, pretty much functionally a social director.) The building was amazing. I wish that we could have taken pictures in the library, but this will have to suffice-- those walls are all carved white maple.
The red chamber entrance was equally grand:
(and this sort of architecture is normal throughout the Parliament)
All in all, a beautiful building, informative tour, and well worth the visit. And to add to my geekiness? Looks like all of my LMM fandom helped in my Canadian history knowledge-- when I saw the 1st Parliament plaque with the first Prime Minister John A. MacDonald's name, I remembered her mention of meeting him on her train ride west when she was just a little girl.
A walk around Parliament Hill revealed the stray cat sanctuary (where I pet the sweetest little kitty named "Brownie") and a nice view of the river. BTW, the cat sanctuary? It's listed in the Lonely Planet guide as one of the "wierd Ottawa" places to visit.
Next up was a walk to the Supreme Court. I hadn't reserved a tour, so I couldn't go in *sniffle*, but I did take the time to snap a picture of the statues out front, especially my favorite one:
(Justice. Eerie, no?)
Up to the National Library and Archives-- no real exhibits were up to see there at the time, so I hightailed it down Sparks Street-- past the CBC radio offices (another geeky moment! I felt this incredible urge to run up there and say: "I LOVE your radio programs!!! Got any "As it Happens" mugs?"
But I restrained myself, like a good public radio listener.)
I did get a chance to stop by Zellers, where they actually had the coveted "Red Mittens" for sale (and must have gotten a fresh shipment, from the number of people buzzing around the bins!) This is, apparently, -the- Olympic Souvenir to get and, though I'm not Canadian, I can now try to blend in (like when Joey wore red and green to the Greece-Portugal Euro cup finals-- it's a matter of survival *grin*) Plus, they're outright cute.
Another side note: anyone else loving the Olympic fashion this year? The US uniforms (courtesy of Ralph Lauren) are awesome and stylish, ditto for the Canadian, and I'm coveting the outfits designed for the medal presenters (see them here.)
Next up, Bytown Museum, "Where Ottawa Was Born." This little museum is located at the base of the Ottawa locks, in what used to be the Commissary. First thing that I learned at the museum is that the (UNESCO- designated world heritage site) Rideau Canal and its famous locks were built during the War of 1812 to defend against the Americans. How incredibly ironic is it that this canal now draws in so many Americans through tourism? The museum, itself, is small with only a few exhibits, but informative. For someone who loves antique clothing and accessories, my favorite part was the exhibit on Victorian life on the third floor, complete with hair jewelery, mourning hats, and one of the prettiest gowns I've seen from the period.
No rest for the weary. This intrepid traveler next hightailed it over to the mint, stopping in transit to go into the Basilica of Notre Dame, the seat of the Catholic Church in Ottawa.
(That roof? Nickel-clad, I think. It shines so bright in the sun)
It's another building that could have easily been picked up somewhere in France, Portugal, Spain, Italy, and dumped right in Ottawa. The star-painted ceiling is more than enough excuse to go inside.
Next up was the mint, where they made the medals for this Olympics-- they had three of them (and three of the Paralympics) medals temporarily hanging in a display case-- that was a once-in-a-lifetime sight to see.
After the mint, I hiked back over to the hotel and changed for a quick late afternoon skate on the canal. The lights on the canal were starting to be lit and (having not eaten anything since a muffin top at breakfast) I was craving another Beavertail.
After skating and walking so much over two days, I have to admit that my poor feet hurt so much that I only lasted about a kilometer and a half on the canal before giving in and hiking over to the Rogers Crystal Garden, which also had beavertails and the ability to walk amoungst the lit ice sculptures whilst devouring said beavertail:
(pairs nicely with a maple-butter beavertail!)
I wasn't done yet! Next up was a hike back up to the National Art Museum (free from 5-8 on Thursdays, whee!) where I took in the Canadian and Inuit art galleries... and a perfect appetizer for dinner at the Sweetgrass Aboriginal Bistro. And when one eats at an Aboriginal Bistro, it's a shame if one doesn't bother to try foods one has never eaten before!
I cheated with the potato-leek-bacon soup, but I was sooooo cold that I needed something to warm me up. I followed that with the wabush (rabbit) dumplings (yum!) and then the Elk 2 ways-- grilled and braised. Everything was good, though sooo much meat (when I usually don't each much, particularly red meat) finished me for the night. Full and happy, I waddled back to the hotel and called it a night.
Next up: The Olympic opening ceremonies (on TV or perhaps in a theatre!),the nighttime dance party at the Carnival de Quebec, and another long and tiring day. Wheee!
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Skating the Rideau Canal
(My Obama cookie-- I'll get to that later in this entry)
Today started late and slow... a 5 am bedtime translated into waking up at 10 am, groggy and at about half speed. Still, I forced myself into some warm clothes and ventured outside to hunt out the tourism information centre. It was nice to finally go outside and get a clear picture of my surroundings-- the hotel where I am staying is wonderfully central to everything. Picture this: a castle-like structure built in 1912 hugs one side of a canal (now empty at the locks, frozen over and teeming with skaters a bit further away) while a grassy and stony hill slopes up the other side to a nearly gothic series of large buildings that compose Parliament Hill (topped with a tall spire rising from a tower.) If you look closely enough, gargoyles hug the buildings in that complex across the canal. The center city has a (as I learned today) deliberately European feel, globe-like lights framing the main thoroughfare while monuments and parks are scattered in the midst of all of the bustle.
The guide at the infocentre was very helpful, loading me up with maps of the city, top sights not to miss, and encouraging my skateway obsession by handing me the canal skateway map and commenting on how warm a day it was going to be-- -4C (Not bad, really! I had already spent the morning without gloves!) From there, it was back to the hotel to change (skating tights, kneepads, thermal pants, ski pants, underarmor turtleneck top, fingerless fleece gauntlets, jacket, knit bonnet) and off to the canal! After donning my skates and stumbling onto the smoother centre (I'm spelling everything Canadian-style while I'm up here!) ice, I followed the sage advice of quite a few Canadians who I had told about this trip-- I bought a beavertail.
Every culture seems to have some variation on fried dough: Portuguese have farturas, Spanish and Latin Americans have churros, New Orleaneans have those pillow-y beignets, Italians have zeppole, Americans have funnel cake, and the Canadians have beavertails. What I particularly like about this specific type of fried dough is that it's flat enough to make it airy and crispy, the perfect counterpoint to the maple-y gooey goodness that I ordered on top of the one that I ate. And, I'm almost ashamed to report... I ate it all!
That's okay-- I had 7.8 Kilometers plus another 5- 6 kilometers return trip to burn it all off (confusing? 7.8 km includes skating onto the little side creek and on Dow's lake. I decided to skip those detours on the return trip for the sake of my legs!
For anyone who wants to skate the Rideau Canal, here's what I've learned:
1. Non-rink ice can be bumpy-- especially at the sides, over by the concession stands (on the ice!!!), and, well, EVERYWHERE else. I have a newfound respect for those first skaters who created the jumps and spins that we know today-- it was too bumpy and uneven for me to try anything more than a simple 1-foot spin and a tiny waltz jump. It took a bit to adjust by shifting my weight slightly more backwards to avoid toe-pick face planting and to fight all that I've been taught and keep my eyes downwards to avoid cracks and lumps and grooves. Hockey skaters have a slightly easier time on the canal.
2. They don't take credit cards at the concession stands. Bring cash!
3. Layers, layers, layers, especially on a particularly warm day, like today. By km marker 5, I had already doffed my coat.
4. The beginning of the canal is the roughest part. It smooths out a bit after Km marker 1.
5. Bumpy and rough ice also means that you need to work harder than traveling the same distance on manicured/zambonied ice. I'm in great skating shape with good stamina and my legs were BURNING early into the skate! Be ready for a buns-of-steel style workout!
6. Also be ready for some fellow skaters who make the canal even more of a joy to skate-- the guy skating in a business suit while on lunch break, another one who was skating and strumming a guitar at the same time, the group of guys who had rigged up literal skateboards (with skate blades)... you never quite know who you're going to pass.
7. Getting to the 7.8km marker is a major high:
8. Followed by a major low when you realize that (if you're crazy and insist on getting the "full" experience) you have to now skate back that whole way. Normal people, of course, may choose to just change into their shoes and get off of the canal at any time.
9. Have a goal to skate towards. Mine was to get my hands on:
(a bacon bunner, only seen at around Km marker 2 or so. Canadian Bacon + bread= yum. Picture #2 is of my sandwich while I'm seated at a picnic table -on the ice! See my skate at the bottom?
10. And get a maple taffy made on the snow! (yum)
So, two things that I've observed so far on this trip-- first, that Ottawans (and Canadians in general) are incredibly clean. Let me tell you that I -know- that if this canal was in NY or Philly or even D.C., it would be full of litter. Here, there was no clean up crew and the only things that I saw were very few random cigarette butts and a lost receipt. The city is just as clean, not a bit of litter in sight. Second, the fact that Canadians are just so freakishly nice has been reinforced quite a few times in the past 24 hours (is it something in the water? Can we ship that stuff south?) Starting with the airport, where random strangers were offering to pick up coffee for each other or offering doughnuts to all of us, up to this afternoon when I had just found out that the concession stands didn't take credit. I had asked the stand guy (salesperson?) where I could find an ATM that worked (I did a quick run down of the fact that I had arrived last night, that the ATM he had mentioned didn't take my card), then, waterless with no ATM prospects, started skating away when this woman skated up beside me, said she overheard the convo, and asked if she could buy me something! I told her no, thanks, but I was REALLY touched by the gesture. Later, in the hunt for an ATM that would take my card, I saw this kind of helpfulness left and right.
Anyway, I digress. After I had my fill of skating, I left the ice at Confederation Park, where I was able to enter the "Rogers Crystal Garden", a host of ice sculptures carved by people all over the country and the world. I particularly loved this one from Japan:
and, shades of Narnia, anyone?:
(Jadis, the White Witch, would love that sofa)
There were dragons and chimera all delicately carved in ice, a fountain surrounded by ice sculptures. A fantasy garden with an ice troll, ice mushrooms and a unicorn was also flanked by knitting graffiti (google it. Yarn bombing is the alternate term) An ice lounge with ice tables and chairs and an ice bar. I know that last one is actually being used at night!
And... then it was back to the hotel to change out of the skating clothes. I had been hoping to visit Parliament, but when I got inside they told me that the last tour was at 3:30 and it was already pushing 4 o'clock. Knowing that I'd probably have the same problem with most of the government sites, I took a day 2 plan (Byward market area) and shifted it to today. I stopped at Rideau Centre to see if i could find any good Olympic-goodies, was sorely tempted by some of the Hudson Bay Company swag (but stopped myself) and ended up getting a cute little t shirt from another shop (for $7) with maple leaves and "Go Canada" printed on it (I almost, but didn't get the "Canada... eh" shirt. That made me giggle) A stop at Tim Hortons to pick up a warm hug in a cup (see entries from PEI. I'm an addict. Possibly because they're the only place I know where a small coffee is actually small and not a large in disguise), then back outside.
If I have time tommorrow, I have to return to the market in daylight. The main market reminded me of a small version of the Reading Terminal Market-- shops, food places, everything with a slightly funky vibe. I picked up some maple tea (another addiction. Thanks, Canada) and then saw...
The Obama Cookies! Apparently, he had visited this bakery, they had given him a "Canada" cookie, he said, "I love this country" and the rest is history.
A little bit more wandering where I passed the US Embassy, the National Art Gallery and the Peacekeeping Monument, and then my poor legs just decided that they had enough. Not surprising, since I'd been going nonstop for... hmmm... eight hours. By six thirty, I was back in the hotel for a long shower and now I have my legs propped up to ease the pain.
I hope I can walk tommorrow, because tommorrow is Parliament/Supreme Court/ everything else in that direction day!
Eaaarly Morning post
Hello from beautiful, beautiful Ottawa, Canada!
Why am I posting so early? Thanks to some not-so-smart thinking on Continental's part, we only left Newark (on the heels of a snowstorm) at 1:30 in the morning... so, by the time that I arrived at my hotel it was already 4am.
Still, I had a lovely taxi ride in-- this city has already managed to enchant me as we drove in along the lit canal, ice smooth and reflecting the bridges arching above its surface. From whatthe taxi driver told me, it's not uncommon to see people skating at 3am during Winterlude (I'll skip that. with my luck, that's when I'd trip over my toepicks and injure myself!) And my hotel room overlooks the canal and Parliament, again, lit up and sparkling. I already know that I'm going to like this place.
(best part? the taxi driver said that it's been freakishly warm-- meaning in the 20s and 30s farenheit. I'll take that!)
(sorry for the dark picture, this is the best I can do from my hotel room window with no flash!)
Why am I posting so early? Thanks to some not-so-smart thinking on Continental's part, we only left Newark (on the heels of a snowstorm) at 1:30 in the morning... so, by the time that I arrived at my hotel it was already 4am.
Still, I had a lovely taxi ride in-- this city has already managed to enchant me as we drove in along the lit canal, ice smooth and reflecting the bridges arching above its surface. From whatthe taxi driver told me, it's not uncommon to see people skating at 3am during Winterlude (I'll skip that. with my luck, that's when I'd trip over my toepicks and injure myself!) And my hotel room overlooks the canal and Parliament, again, lit up and sparkling. I already know that I'm going to like this place.
(best part? the taxi driver said that it's been freakishly warm-- meaning in the 20s and 30s farenheit. I'll take that!)
(sorry for the dark picture, this is the best I can do from my hotel room window with no flash!)
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