Thursday, December 9, 2010

India, Part Three: More Mumbai and Sari Shopping

So... where was I last?

Gateway to India, and right across from it, the Taj Mahal hotel, where the attacks took place November 26th. The hotel only shows a few outwards signs of the attacks... singed facade here and there, closed sections. It's a beautiful building and I'm afraid my camera probably didn't do it justice, since the sun was right behind it. Four security checks later, including x-raying my purse and two purse searches, and I was in the hotel. The lobby is magnificent (what do you expect from a place that charges a minimum of $400 US a night, if my guidebook is right?), and, on my way to the coffee "shop" for tea, I passed the memorial for those who died that day (rumor has it that the hotel is paying all of the survivors' hospital bills, a ridiculous sum of money.) The coffee shop turned out to be a restaurant where shabby little me in a polo shirt and jeans, hair all akimbo from the wind, sat and knit amidst business people and guests while waiting for my tea and water. It was a nice little respite and a break from the early afternoon heat (and the tea and water still cost less than a trip to Starbucks.) Afterwards, I walked out into the sunlight and heat to begin my (originally short but now turned out long) walk to Kala Goda circle.

Now, Kala Goda is home to a few big museums and shops. You would think that I wouldn't miss it, right?

Wrong.

Somehow, I bypassed it entirely and ended up at Horniman circle, at its heart a botanical garden. A few minutes in the shade there was enough to steel myself back into the sunlight and out to ask the first person I see: "Kala Goda?" He nods and points me back in the direction from where I had come, waving a bit to indicate that it's still a bit of a distance. And so began my comedy sketch of an afternoon, with me bypassing most of what I had been looking for and eventually finding it. Kala Goda wasn't entirely my fault-- apparently, the big black statue of a man on a horse that gave the place its name had been moved in favor of a car park. *sigh*

At Kala Goda was the Prince of Wales museum (now Charp...something Shri... something or other museum), and I went in, taking advantage of the cool shade just when I needed it the most. Along with the tourist admission price came an audio tour-- and while it was pretty neat to have things explained to me, the audio guide was a TALKER. So, sometimes I'd start the recording for a specific thing and moved on, using that for background noise. The museum, itself, had more of the stone carvings, carved ivories, tiny manuscripts, but my favorite room was the monetary history room, with Indian coins through the ages, going deeply BC. My favorite coins? The itty-bitty quarter- and half-rupees-- little push-pin size circles that I most certainly would lose in a heartbeat. And you should see all of the Portuguese-Goan coins. I was reluctant to go back into the heat afterwards, but I did, but not for long.

A short hike and I was back in the Taj area-- there's a road that runs behind the hotel called "Colaba Causeway", lined on one side with shops and hawkers stalls, filled with tourists and noise and shopping where you can bargain down anything to at least half, if not more, of what they quote to you (and most of the time, they probably quote 75% more to us tourists!) On Colaba causeway is the Leopold Cafe, another famous landmark dating back to the 1800s. This was another place where the attacks took place, and army officers with rifles sit out front, guarding a very difficult to guard location. Unlike the Taj, there were no security checks, no metal detectors. But I went in and enjoyed the cool break from the heat and humidity, eating a mango ice cream while still being able to hear the chaos and bustle through the open doorways. The cafe has an old-fashioned ice-cream parlor/dineresque feel, with small glass-topped tables through which you could see their menu, ranging from indo-chinese to italian to indian dishes, and an assortment of ice creams and kulfis that make your head spin (too bad I hadn't discovered the wonder of kulfi yet, else I probably wouldn't have been tempted by the mango ice cream). One odd thing that I kept noticing were people taking photographs of the area where I was seated, so I turned around to see if there was something behind me... and see a boarded glass window with gunshot holes clearly visible. Everything else in the place was repaired, but I think that they're never going to replace that window or any of the gunshot holes in the walls-- too many people with a morbid curiosity will make those a draw for a while.

The rest of the afternoon was an exercise in comedy-- I was on the lookout for this one specific store, and somehow managed to bypass it on other roads multiple times despite help and directions from so many people (me taking the second right instead of the first, or getting turned around in the circle!) But I liked that experience-- if not for that, I wouldn't have been able to see half of what I did! Regal cinema, with it's art-deco style, the University in all of its glory (the clock tower and other buildings have a cathedral-esque look to them, lovely), the estate that had been converted to the police headquarters, every detail of Kala Goda. I did find the store (and shopped), just before being picked up for dinner.

Dinner that night was a fantastic experience-- we went to a vegetarian thali place, where they serve you these platters full of different sauces and tons of breads or crisps or sweets to eat with them. It was sort of like a reverse mirror image of Rodizio! The food kept coming-- sweets and savory, and I ate until I had to practically be rolled out of the place! It was a fun experience, and when Aunt Kay asked if I wanted to take a picture of our turbaned waiter and then asked him if we could, the entire turbaned staff came out of the kitchen for a photo!

The next morning, we were out bright and early (well, shops here do open late, but still early after that long night) to go shopping for dupattas at the sari shops (and subsequently my sari.) That was a fun and new experience! They would take you up to the counter where the dupattas were stored, and, as you talked, they would shake out, so expertly, shawl after shawl, brocade, embroidered, all colors of the rainbow, before you could even say "Blue and silver!" This was repeated in all of the shops, each one just as stunning as the next. You should see some of the more elaborate saris on display-- so full of embroidery and sequin work and beadwork! Modern saris with fishtail hems sewn in. And seats to perch on as you contemplate your purchase.

After shopping, we went to lunch with one of Aunt Kay's schoolmates at the Bombay Gymkana, kind of like a country club, originally built by the British for British only (isn't that always like them?), now open to Indians. It was a lovely lunch, sitting outside on the second floor overlooking the cricket pitch. That day, I had, in addition to two indian dishes, an Indo-Chinese "American Chow Mein" (nothing like American chinese food, but crunchy and yummy-- with a fried egg on top!). And I had my first taste of kulfi, Indian ice cream. (I'm now truly addicted!) That afternoon, I actually saw a parrot fly past us!

After lunch was a drive-by of Victoria Terminus, a beautiful indo-victorian structure, intricately carved with peacocks and monkeys and other varied and sundry animals and plants. And the government building behind it, equally carved. A trip to Crawford market (we didn't go inside the closed market-- too chaotic, but to some of the outside stalls.) And then back to the sari shops for my sari.

That morning, I think the decision had been made by me unconsciously when I had seen, wrapped up for another customer, a beautifully embroidered sari in a chiffon material. So, when we went shopping, we basically went straight to that store, and, when I was shown the more traditional brocaded saris, I still had the other sari in mind. I did get draped in a rich royal blue and silver brocaded sari that I felt was beautiful, but too cool and strong a color for me, then, we sat down and had them show us the floral embroidered sari. I wasn't totally sold by it-- the color, again, a sea green, seemed too strong-- until I was draped in it and completely fell in love. Even a trip upstairs to see the more traditional brocaded saris (and another sea green/purple combo that took my breath away), just made me love that one more. Being draped in one is a fun experience for this first-timer, when you first look in a mirror and see yourself dressed in this beautiful length of fabric-- and it's HARD to make a choice!

So, I've ended up with, as it turns out, a Parsi- style sari (would you believe it?) I'm off this morning to get the petticoat and blouse-liner material, since I had to borrow a petticoat from Aunt Dhun for the wedding.

Dinner that night was at Aunt Kay's Uncle Jimmy's house, with assortment after assortment of good food (mmmm curry!) and more kulfi! (As well as more sweets than I can remember, all of which I love) This trip may actually need to be called "Carla's trip to India in 101 foods."

India, Part Two-- Khamshet and Carla meets Karla

Okay, so the first thing that you need to know is that there is no way for me to escape eating on this trip. I'm being fed good food, in copious quantities, breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea, and inbetween. It would be easier if I didn't like one thing or another, but I have yet to come across a food I haven't liked... and that means that my poor tushie might not completely fit in those wide airplane seats that I was raving about in my first e-mail. Or my jeans... but I digress (you want to hear about India and not my ever-expanding bottom, I'm sure!). But India, for me, has been as much about enjoying all of the good food as well as the places we've visited. So, you've been warned!

...

Tuesday, we drove out to the farm in Khamshet-- we left early in the morning to avoid the traffic and it took us about two hours, fifteen minutes on the highway to get there--- and that was with switching cars on the highway with Aunt Kay's brother... and stopping at McDonalds to stretch our legs, get a coffee (and for me, a "Veg Pizza Puff" for later-- turned out to be something like a veggie hot pocket, very good). Susie, you'll get a kick out of the picture I took of the menu-- it was only breakfast, but things like the "Spinach and corn Egg McMuffin" made me smile. And then we continued on. You all know how much I love hills and mountains, and once we got out of the city and into the hills and valleys, I was plastered to the window. The landscape, if I were to compare it to anything, would probably be similar to the area around Fatima. It's odd to go from sooooo many people fit into the city and then having everything open up and, except for on the road, not seeing people for miles.

I'm going to digress here for a mibute-- I'll have to get a picture of a "Goods Carrier"-- some of the trucks are very elaborately painted, and the best part is what's written onto the back of every one: "Honk OK Please". Honking seems to be more of a preventative measure here, done lots of times just to let someone know that you're coming up on their blind spot, or from their side. It also seems to be done a lot to tell a pedestrian or biker foolish enough to get in one's way "I'm not slowing down and will run you over." Anyway...

Khamshet is so pretty-- like I told you in my mini update, Susie, the house is like something out of a Rudyard Kipling novel, all open, painted white, with a large porch for eating, and scrollwork (I don't know if scrollwork is quite the right word, I'll have to show you the pictures) railings downstairs outside of Aunt Kay's mother's room and on the upstairs landing (to reach one of the bedrooms upstairs, you actually go outside first onto this large, covered landing that overlooks the farm.) And the house is surrounded by mango trees and coconut palms, flowers everywhere, and a lovely garden with a swing chair set out for breakfast and tea. I loved seeing all of the flowers that I usually only see in a botanical garden or greenhouse-- you should see the poinsettias (oh, I give up on trying to spell that!) growing naturally, taller than me, or the bougainvillea dropping the flowers down like snow. As I walked down the main drive, droves of butterflies just swirled up around me. There, we had all of our meals outside on the porch, enjoying the cooler weather, and I napped out in the garden (not really by choice-- you know I never sit still, but I was knitting and the next thing I knew, I was too worn out to do anything but just shut my eyes and enjoy the sunshine).

In the afternoon, we went to Pune, a nearby city. It's a university city, very new and modern... but despite it's small size, it has some of the worst traffic ever, thanks to also being the city with the most two and three-wheeled vehicles in India, if not the world. Motorcyclists everywhere, completely disobeying any traffic rules, weaving in and out of traffic-- no wonder things moved so slow!

In Pune, I had mendhi done on my hand by an artist on the steps of the shopping center. In case you didn't know, mendhi is where they apply henna to skin to stain it in intricate patterns. He piped the paste on in less than ten minutes, and then I had to wait for it to dry before taking it off. For some reason, the mendhi didn't really take to the skin of my wrist, so my hand is nice and dark while my wrist looks faded. It's really pretty, and I have pictures of it in process and now in case it fades before you get a chance to really see it well.

The next morning, we had a mini-breakfast out in the garden followed by eggs at the table (I'm telling you, food is taken seriously here! What I would already consider a large breakfast was just a pre-breakfast taste!) Khamshet is much cooler than Mumbai, and it was nice to sit out on the swing and drink tea in the cool air. The cool didn't last too long though-- by mid morning, the climb up to Karla caves was hot! To get to the caves, you have to climb up the mountainside on these stairs/ inclines that take you there-- I'd say at least a fifteen minute walk that might not be tiring if not for the sun and heat. the views up there are lovely- you see the valley laid out before you in greens and golds. Since there's a Hindu temple that was placed in front of the caves, the steps closer to the temple are lined with vendors selling flowers and garlands and sweets as offerings for the temple. The sweet smell of the flowers wafts up at you and competes with the peanut vendor, lemonade seller, and cucumber vendor. After a little ticket problem at the gate, we went into the caves. Oh, you have to see this place-- at the entrance, on either side, going up about five or six stories, the walls are carved with elephants and people-- lifelike, really, and this was completed in 80 BC. Inside of the cave, a huge sun-window over the doorway illuminated the room (reminding me of the windows you see towards the back of a cathedral-- I guess when an "architectural element" works, you'll see it everywhere through history). Pillars lined the room, each carved at the top with people sitting on elephants. And at the center back, a large round structure. Oddly, though this was a buddhist cave, some hindu devotees were doing some sort of ritual in front of the round structure (?)... not sure what they were doing.

Then we climbed up into the cave rooms-- simple rooms with balconies looking out over the valley that look a lot like the native american cave dwellings that you've probably seen in pictures.

So, Carla and Karla (or Carli and Karle, if you go by one of the placards inside of the caves!) met!

That afternoon, we made our way back to Mumbai, leaving right after lunch to try and beat the traffic. We weren't entirely successful-- the last bit in the city involved a lot of sitting in traffic, but we got here early enough for dinner. (Mom, you'd really have loved the fish stuffed with chutney! And crab curry. Mmmmmmmm. Susie, I know you're not a fish person, so I know it doesn't sound as great to you!)

Yesterday morning, we squeezed in the last half of a yoga lesson-- we were there for the breathing portion, which I really needed for my poor nose and lungs. The cold is almost all gone, but I still get stuffy now and again and still have a cough at night and in the morning. I felt so much clearer afterwards. We went for a little bit of shopping afterwards (I'm going to get to see a wedding in Delhi and needed to get at least a choli (sari blouse) so that I can either buy a sari (which I'm hoping to do, it'll be a nice souvenir) or borrow a sari for the occasion).

After lunch, I was set loose in Mumbai at the Gateway to India. Cell phones are wonderful things-- I was dropped off near the Taj Hotel, and it was easy to meet up at night for dinner with just a few calls.

The Gateway to India-- this arch is beautifully carved, with arched doorways along its side. You'll have to see the pictures-- I can't really describe it better than that. People everywhere in front of the Gateway, taking pictures, hawking their wares (Dad, you'd have trouble there-- it's just like those vendors in the mall, you just have to be rude and ignore them, or not make eye contact and say "No, thanks". Otherwise, they'll keep following you! Thankfully, you all know that I have no trouble being rude to vendors!)

I'll have to finish this later... we're off shopping!

Hugs and Kisses to Everyone!

India, Part One-- Contrasts in Mumbai

I'm posting these straight from the e-mails that I had sent to my little sister back in March, 2009, when I was visiting India with my neighbors... hence the conversational style of these next few posts!


Mumbai has been a real study in contrasts and I'm enjoying it-- after my e-mail last night, we even had fireworks that we were able to see from the flat. I'm staying at Aunt Kay's mother's flat, which is beautiful and has really nice views of the Arabian sea and the city-- I was jet-lagged and woke up in enough time to see the sun rising over the city (which really never sleeps).

And this morning, Aunt Kay and I had breakfast on the veranda overlooking the city.

This morning we went to see the Haji Ali mosque, which is out in the Arabian sea, with a causeway that gets covered during high tide so that the
mosque becomes an island. We didn't go all the way inside of the mosque because, after a point, you have to take off your shoes and neither I nor Aunt Kay
were interested in doing that. Same with the Malalakshmi Hindu temple-- we were
content seeing it from the outside (when we go to the larger temples/mosques on our itinerary, we're planning on bringing socks! Apparently, the Taj Mahal got smart, though, and offers shoe covers, so that's one place we won't have to worry about). It's a Hindu festival today in Mumbai, and the place was so busy and colorful-- so many women and men and children in beautiful saris and suits, flowers and bright lights everywhere.

Contrasts this morning-- the beggar children and adults lined along the causeway that you just have to ignore, the trash around the base of the Haji Ali, on the rocks and floating in the because people just throw it there. The crazy traffic-- the city is still growing at such an incredible pace and doesn't have the infrastructure yet to handle all of the cars. We have a driver, which at least means parking is less of a challenge.

And nope, haven't seen any cows in the road! Three on the sidewalk, though, two
of which were dressed up for the holiday!

We did a little bit of shopping before lunch and then we headed to Uncle Nosh's place down the street for lunch. SO MUCH FOOD TODAY! You certainly don't have
to worry about me not eating enough, as it is I'll have to be rolled onto the
plane at the end of the trip. But really good food... and for dessert at lunch we had this dish that is supposed to be made only for special occasions... so between the fireworks and the dessert, I'm feeling very special. Uncle Nosh's family has been so nice and welcoming, as well.

It's hot and humid and my hair absolutely loves it-- it's so alive and curly here, while it's just tired and limp in our dry winter weather. (I know, totally random, but it is hot!)

After lunch and a rest, we went to see... I'm going to mutilate the name here... Banghanga Tank, where the Hindu funerals are usually held (though there were none today)... it's as if you took a stadium and, instead of filling it with grass, you fill the playing area with water and have steps rising up from it for a while. It was interesting to see, though I found the little village that had grown around it even more interesting-- and bustling, again, with the festival and people in all of the little temples along the narrow road (a car shouldn't go there, but we saw one brave soul who did). This was another contrast-- we went from big city to this small village right in the middle of it. You go from multi-lane roads to a narrow road where the local kids are playing cricket and construction narrowed a part down to one lane. I even got to see the local flour mill.

And each temple has its own god, with a different ambience and personality to it-- again, from the outside, since we all liked wearing our shoes.

And after that, we went to see the sun setting from a point in the Queen's necklace (that's what they call the U-shaped area on the waterfront that sparkles at night, like a necklace). This was the last big contrast here-- from big city, to little village, to peaceful, busy-but-not-so-busy spot. I've never seen the sun so red as it lowered over the horizon, into the water.

This was also the location of the Oberoi hotel (where some of the attacks took place), and we went inside-- it's a 5-star hotel and it's luxury contrasts so much with what we saw, for example, on the way to the mosque this morning.

Oh, and at the same place, I saw a lady in a sari and sneakers, powerwalking with her ipod.

And then dinner and now, too full to move, I'm ready to pass out!

Tommorrow, we're going to see the Karla Caves and going to the farm, so I'll check in when I get a chance.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

On Hobbits and Snowmen

Day Two, Quebec City.

My morning plans involved wandering (and lots of it!), so bright and early I grabbed myself a cup of white hot cocoa ("Un petit chocolate chaud blanc, s'il vous plait") at Second Cup (addiction #2) with some form of scone-y thing and wandered down to Rue St.Jean. And then... then I was presented with a challenge:
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Le Hobbit Bistro.

Was I hobbit-y enough to eat "Second Breakfast" at the Hobbit? Apparently, if it's crepes with real maple syrup, I certainly was. Full beyond measure, it was down the streets and through the doors into Vieux Quebec, the older walled part of the city. Head over heels, I shopped (medieval-themed boutiques lined one street-- I stopped at a new top and belt), let myself be caught by surprise:

Photobucket --random art down an alleyway

and wandered a real-life Hogsmeade of cobblestone streets, tiny shops, and buskers.
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I love how the city in the winter has random outdoor ice rinks-- by one city wall entrance there was a hockey game starting, by another was a regular public rink (and, of course, I did grab my skates and paddled about on the public rink until my toes nearly froze off... spinning in a bulky winter coat, however, was a challenge!)

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Up, up, up the narrow staircase to the Chateau Laurier and a park where I could see the frozen St. Laurence. I love seeing ice chunks floating in rivers-- it's still a novelty to me.

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Beside the Chateau was a giant ice slide-- after seeing someone being carted away by an ambulance, I contented myself with just watching people fly down the steep hill. I'm adventurous, but not crazy!

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And then, back to the carnaval, where the craziness was really beginning, with the bain de niege, where truly insane people strip down to their skivies to "bathe in the snow." (note the political statements being made by some of these Quebecois students)

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Another one (of many) tige sur la niege

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and another beavertail while I watched the St. Hubert horse sled races, the giant group tubing slides, and drumcorps (one of which had me giggling as it played the "Imperial March"! I am SUCH a geek!) I've also recorded quite a bit of sound, but I'm still working on how to get that up on this blog. The energy is so incredibly contagious!

After dinner at a Lebanese restaurant (sorry, but I just couldn't stomach another Poutine! Good, but soooooo heavy! Falafel and other random goodness can be a little bit lighter,) it was back to the hotel to bulk up my clothes and wait for the arrival of Bonhomme in my hotel lobby!

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Followed by the night parade, which was a combo between a light parade and cirque de soleil. Thanks to my hotel's fantastic location along the parade grounds (meaning waiting in my hotel room until nearly the last minute) and my million layers of thinsulate and fleece, I was cozy and happy waiting through the parade (hint: wrap your scarf around your face. And heated shoe liners. The only cold parts of me were my eyes.) It was definitely worth the cold (even for an adult.)

During this part of the trip, I discovered that I love, love, LOVE tubing! As a child, I never had the chance to go tubing-- while we've always lived on the top of a hill, our bushes make it unsledable, and mom would never have allowed us to throw ourselves towards the street, anyway. So, it took until now for me to try tubing. The tubing hill was just right for me-- not too life-threatening, but still fast and fun.

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(cute costume!)

So, I squeezed in a few more rides before heading back to the hotel and a hot shower.

Day three was a little hike to the Cathedral for Sunday mass (in French-- such a good little Catholic, aren't I? and the cathedral was stunning, as expected) and a last starry-eyed wander before boarding the train back to Montreal, then Ottawa. In Montreal, during my stopover, I hunted out a stand that served a Smoked meat sandwich (on recommendation from another coworker.) Except for the mustard-- now I know to ask for one without-- it was good... sort-of like a cross between corned beef and-- well, I'm not quite sure else. A last cup of White Hot Chocolate from Second cup (addict! ADDICT! I can order it in English and French. And I CAN'T FIND IT HERE!!!!!) and a quick stock-up on Aero bars and smarties and other Canadian candy bar goodness, and I was back on the train, speeding back to my airport hotel in Ottawa and an early flight home.

Adieu, Quebec. Je me souviens!